![]() ![]() Now I could remove all the packing tape I had on the bottom. I was working on this right before Christmas so mixing and pouring a little bit while I walked away and did something else was pretty convenient for my holiday schedule.Īfter a few more days I flipped the table over to pour from the other side. Here’s another pour on, I think, another day. This area had so many small cracks so I figured flooding it was a good option. Just fill it with epoxy and watch the bubbles come up as the epoxy flows into the cracks. This second pour was better in that I didn’t have to babysit certain areas. So at this point, I had not only a damn but also a spillway. The caulk dam keeps the epoxy concentrated unless you’re a dummy like me and just pour way too much at a time. ![]() Mixing smaller batches like this also guarantees that I’m not going to pour much thicker than the recommended layer height for this product. So I had no idea how much I was going to need or how much I should have mixed with each batch. I mainly just use it as an adhesive for joinery. Store a few large wire nuts near your caulking tubes and use them as caps to prevent the opened tube from drying out.Īlright, mix number two. Luckily, it’s the first pour which means all of the voids can accept the most amount of epoxy.Īfter letting the first pour set up for a while I added the caulking to create a dam around all of the major flood areas. That was an instant “you’re a dummy” moment as I started to pour. I started the first pour without using caulking as an epoxy damn to focus the location of the pour. We all use our smartphones for everything and I really don’t like the idea of sticky epoxy fingers touching my cell phone. The bottles of High Performance say that you need to mix it for at least two minutes so I recommend picking up a cheap kitchen timer to dedicate to this task. I’m also tinting it black with some epoxy dye that a friend left in my shop a couple of years ago. The epoxy I’m using is Total Boat High Performance with medium hardener. This will allow me to flood the slab with epoxy and hopefully stop any extra from spilling out. So rather than a melamine form, I decided to use some wax paper to basically gift wrap the slab. I’m only using epoxy to fill the bark inclusion and the cracks and I won’t be, I guess, suspending the table in epoxy around the perimeter. I figured it would be easier to pour from the bottom side first as the larger bark inclusion in the center would be easier to fill that way. I put a layer of tape over the major areas first and then a layer of tape over the entire top side. It was much cheaper and I already had a lot on hand. House wrap tape is commonly used in epoxy projects but I went with regular clear packing tape instead. Apart from the obvious voids and cracks that you can easily see, it was full of small cracks and bug holes here and there. ![]() The first step was to examine the slab and determine a game plan. This is a pecan slab I got from a friend of mine Ted Alexander, in Oklahoma in 2017, and in this article and video, I’m going to show you how I turned it into a beautiful table with a somewhat hidden drawer. ![]()
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